A BRIEF HISTORY OF ELK RIVER
By Stephen Rohlf
May 17, 2000
The last glacier in Minnesota heaped up coarse materials in front of itself as
it advanced across the state like a giant bulldozer. When it retreated, it left
behind a band of rolling hills made up of sand and gravel running diagonally
across the state from northwest to southeast. This band of hills, called
terminal moraine, are forested with hardwoods. Elk River is situated in this
terminal moraine, which is the reason why gravel mining is so prevalent within
the city and much of the area is not considered good farmland.
The finer materials deposited to the south of the terminal moraine, called an
outwash plain, is typified by prairie habitat. Elk River is located on the edge,
between the woods and the prairie. This natural boundary between prairie and
woods was also the boundary between Indian nations.
As the Dakota retreated southward from the advancing Ojibwa nation, clashes
occurred. Two battles between these enemies took place where the Elk River meets
the Mississippi River in 1772 and 1773. Both tribes ceded the area of land that
includes present day Sherburne County to the United States in 1837.
The English translation of the Ojibwe name for the Elk River is "Double River",
so named because it paralleled the Mississippi River. Whites called it the St.
Francis River. Nicollet's map of 1843 called the Elk River's northern most
tributary the St. Francis River, as it is known today, and used the Ojibwe name
for the Elk River. Because of the large herds of woodland elk in the area,
Zebulon Pike named it the Elk River. From 1850 on the river has been called the
Elk River.
In 1846, David Faribault built a trading post on a bluff north of the Elk River
over looking the Mississippi River. In 1848, Pierre Bottineau bought the trading
post from Faribault. The site was a good location for business being at the
conjunction of two rivers and with a branch of the Red River Trail passing
nearby.
Ard Godfrey, a native of Orono Maine, saw the potential of the waterpower in Elk
River and built a dam and saw mill in 1851. The lake resulting from this dam
extended from approximately the present dam to Orono Cemetery Point and was
called the Mill Pond. Pilings from what is believed to be part of the original
dam or an associated bridge can be seen just down stream from the present dam.
Gristmills and also a starch factory that took advantage of the potato fields to
the west of Elk River were built to serve the burgeoning agricultural economy in
the latter half of the 19th century.
In 1855, the area by the dam was platted and the town of Orono (known as Upper
Town) was created. With the military road to Fort Ripley passing nearby the
population continued to grow. Between 1849 and 1857, the population expanded
from 7 people to 134 and the first schoolhouse was built. In 1872, the Village
of Elk River, which included the original town of Orono, became the Sherburne
County seat.
The Orono-Elk River area continued to grow until it reached a population of 723
in 1860. The Civil War slowed this growth, but it exploded afterward. By 1870
the population had swelled to 2,050. The early settlers coming to Elk River were
typically from New England. The trend after 1870 was toward settlers from
Northern Europe.
Around this same time, the recently completed railroads began to compete with
the rivers as the main focus of transportation and Lower Town (the present
historic business district of Elk River) became the focus of commerce. By the
mid-1870's, Lower Town had approximately 18 businesses along State Street, a two
block stretch paralleling the north side of the tracks in the approximate
location of today's Railroad Drive.
Lower Town suffered a series of fires during the 1880's and 1890's, including a
major fire in 1898. In an attempt to avoid future fires, the "Brick Block" was
built. This is the area between present day US Trunk Highway 10 and Main Street
on the west side of Jackson Avenue. With the Brick Block, what is now considered
the historic downtown area of Elk River became the center of commerce
In the 1890's, another ethnic group moved to Elk River Township. The Hungarians
settled in the area north of the Village of Elk River near what is now US Trunk
Highway 169 giving it the unusual distinction of being the only documented
Hungarian farming community in the United States.
The Mill Pond dam was destroyed in an ice storm in 1912. By this time
agriculture had replaced lumber as the basis of Elk River's economy. However,
hydropower gave a new incentive to dam the Elk River. A new dam was completed
late in the year 1915, which created the four lobes of Lake Orono as we know it
today. In early 1916, the Village of Elk River received electricity for the
first time. However, it would not be until after World War II that the entire
Township of Elk River would receive electricity.
The Red River Trail crossing the Elk River in the location of the dam became the
Jefferson Highway in the early 1920's. The Sherburne County Star News (now the
Elk River Star News) reported that on Labor Day in 1920, more than 4,000 cars
passed over a newly constructed bridge next to the dam. Being a major route
between the Twin Cities and the lake country to the north and west, the
Jefferson Highway was one of the first paved highways in the state.
Charles Babcock, a native son of Elk River and also the first Commissioner of
Highways for the state, implemented a visionary plan to "get Minnesota out of
the mud". His plan was to build a network of paved roads throughout the state to
improve transportation and consequently the state's economy. His plan became a
model for the rest of the nation.
The military road to Fort Ripley stayed north of the Elk River until it crossed
it at a rapids near Big Lake Township. Also in general vicinity of this
crossing, a man named A. W. Jesperson did massive amounts of rerouting of the
Elk River in the mid 1920's. His vision was to create a recreational resort area
and he platted the Camp Cozy Additions. Cement pillars and other works can still
be seen amongst the many backwaters of the Elk River that resulted from Mr.
Jesperson's work.
In the late 1930's, work began to reroute the Jefferson Highway, now as US Trunk
Highway #10. Heading east to west, Old Highway 10 followed the same route it
does now until it reached 4th Street by the Dairy Queen. It then followed 4th
Street to Main Street and crossed the Elk River at the dam bridge. This work was
postpone due to World War II and was not completed until 1948.
Jackson Avenue north of Highway10 used to be the location of US Trunk Highway
169. The former intersection of Highways 10 and 169 was the only one in the city
with a stoplight. On major travel weekends the traffic would back up towards
Anoka as far as the weigh station. Work on bypassing Elk River with Highway 169
began in 1961.
In 1968, work began on the new route for Highway 101 between Elk River and
Rogers. Prior to this new route, Highway 101 snaked through the countryside and
had many sharp turns. The construction of Interstate 94 through Rogers and the
recent upgrading of Highway 101 to four lanes will increase Elk River's growth
rate.
In 1978, the Village of Elk River and the Township of Elk River consolidated to
create the City of Elk River. The result was one of the largest land based
cities in the state at 44 square miles.
The City of Elk River had a mild building boom in the late 1960's/early 1970's.
The city's population growth then slowed until the mid-1980's, when it exploded.
The City of Elk River now has a population of over 17,000 people. Once again,
transportation is dictating where commercial growth takes place as new
businesses spring up along the Highway 169 corridor.
Besides transportation, energy has always played a major role in shaping Elk
River. The first rural nuclear power plant in the United States went on line in
1960 at the current Great River Energy site in Elk River and the city was
nicknamed "Atomic City". Intended only as a demonstration site the power plant
was shut down and dismantled after several years of successful operation.
The Great River Energy power plant was converted to burn refuse derived fuel in
the late 1980's. This innovative source of energy being located in Elk River was
one of the factors that help the city receive the designation of "Energy City"
from the Minnesota Environmental Initiative in October of 1997. As such, the
city will be the geographical focal point for the energy industry to demonstrate
renewable energy and energy efficient technologies that are on the cutting edge
of science. The distinction of Energy City is unique in the world to Elk River.
Elk River is the fastest growing community in the fastest growing county per
capita in the state. It will be a challenge in the future to preserve Elk
River's small town atmosphere and its unique heritage.